I'm not one to think that with a reaction style bait they are going to be too particular about seeing the line. With a slow moving plastic or dropshot rig I would argue that you get more bites with a flouro leader, but I just don't think it effects a moving bait as much.
I know the video mentions using line that's the equivalent of 10lb diameter, but I don't see why you couldn't run 15lb power pro that has the mono diameter of 4lb. I would even argue that 15lb braid with 4lb diameter is less visible underwater than say 12lb mono that alot of people may be used to cranking with. A major downside I could see is the abrasion resistance and strength with abrasion could be less with a braided line when running across rocks and other structure than you might achieve with a heavier mono.
Here's a chart I found online showing power pro braid and comparible mono diameters:
I need the stretch, mono for me cranking.... bladed swim jigs on the other hand, I'll take braid. cranking for me is reaction I don't think line matters.
Might have to do a trial run on this, My concern would be snapping your crank back when you hang it. Not enough stretch in braid for this.
So listening to his theory on Fluoro on cranking, I'm wondering who here is throwing fluoro and if you have seen the line break down. I throw fluoro but I haven't seen this, I'm also a bit OCD on changing out my line.
I'm with Shawn on this (go figure, he's my tournament partner) I'ts amazing how many times you can get your crank back using the snap back technique. I guess you can just break out your lure retriever if you are set on using braid. Personally, I think fluorocarbon is the way to go with cranks. Like Shawn said though, you need to change your line.
It is hard to question someone with David Fritts' credentials when it comes to cranking. I used to experience the problem he describes with fluorocarbon, but feel that I have all but eliminated the problem in a different manner.
I much prefer fluorocarbon for cranking, usually in 12lb test or 10lb test. I mainly use Sugoi Fluorocarbon, but also like other premium brands as well.
In my mind the hard cast is mainly stressful on the knot itself, and the crankbait adds stress to the knot by working side to side. Fluorocarbon is like wire, and if you bend it back and forth repeatedly it will easily break.
Most of the back and forth movement is reduced by the split ring your knot is tied to, but I have found if you substitute a stainless steel snap in place of the split ring, you will reduce your breakage (and have better crankbait action). The snap is a single thickness of round wire that connects to your single thickness wire eye on the crankbait (as opposed to double wire of a split ring). This reduces friction, and reduces stress on the knot.
I do plan to experiment more with small diameter braid for 20' diving crankbaits; but I am satisfied with my results with fluorocarbon for 90% of my cranking and jerkbaits.
Use a stainless steel snap (no swivel) and remove your split rings. Your cranks will run better, and your breakage will be far less. It is also easier to tie a palomar knot on a split ring with the crank removed, so you will retie more often and quicker.
ciao,
Marc Marcantonio
I left some 10# Seguar Red Label Fluoro on my bait caster reel for two seasons and definitely ran into a problem with the line degrading toward the end of the second season. The line looked great and cast well, but I had two unexplained cast-offs with baits of less than 3/4 oz. Neither was a knot failure. One was within a foot of the lure, and the other was right at the spool--no backlashes on either cast. On another trip I had a snagged crankbait...mild tugging action and the line snapped about 10 feet from the lure. Yes, I'm a slow learner!
There were no abrasions or kinks in the line, and the only explanation I could come up with was line degradation
Posted by Tom Melowitz on September 7, 2019 at 2:45pm
Posted by Eric Urstad on April 3, 2019 at 7:38pm
© 2024 Created by Jordan Doucet. Powered by