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I am probably the worst at sharpening and/or replacing dull hooks on my lures. Was fishing Samm yesterday and missed a good hit on an old lipless crank bait. I am sure it was do to the hooks being dull so I thought I should check all of my hooks to give myself the best shot possible in landing my next PB. Hooks are probably a personal preference for most of you but I was hoping to get a little information from you guys as to how often you sharpen or replace your hooks. Also, I am sure there are many, but how do you test the hook to see if it is still sharp.

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Comment by Marc Marcantonio on April 21, 2009 at 2:35pm
Mike,

There is a lot more to hooks than just being sharp, if you get my point (pun intended).

Being sharp is only part of the battle; wire thickness, length of point, size of barb, and hook design all make a significant difference. This is one of the subtleties about bass fishing that escapes most anglers, including experienced tournament anglers.

You are smart to start the learning process about hooks, and smart enough to recognize that you need to improve this area if you intend to land more fish.

I would be happy to help you with specific questions about hooks for different applications, but will offer that it is important to match the style of hook to both your line size and type, and the size and type of your lure.

For instance, when using 10lb test line for a crankbait, you do not want to use 2X or 4X hooks because the wire is thicker in diameter and requires more force to bury the barb. On the other hand, you don't want to use regular diameter hooks when using 20lb test fluorocarbon or 30 pound or higher braid. Here you need a stouter hook like the Gamakatsu Superline hooks, or Gammie 2X or 4X hooks.

When dropshotting with 6-pound test line and using a 4" soft plastic nose-hooked, I downsize to a #4 Gamakatsu Splitshot/Dropshot hook. If I am Texas Rigging it I may use a #1 Light Wire Worm Hook with light line. With heavy line I use a heavy hook.

Pay attention to the length of hookpoint and size of the barb as well. A longer point requires more force to sink it past the barb. If the barb is large, then more force again is required.

The angle of the hook point in relation to the hook eye also makes a difference. If the hookpoint is in line with the eye; i.e. if a pull on the line causes the hookpoint to move in the exact same direction as the line, then less force is required to set the hook. This is why EWG trebles do a better job of penetrating than a round bend hook. On the other hand, the round bend tends to grab flesh faster than an EWG, but doesn't penetrate as deep. It can be confusing so it is worth learning about hook design and different applications.

Also important is the temper of the wire, and the style of point formation.

I am a Gamakatsu hook guy (prostaff) because they make a ton of different styles and sizes so that I can always match the hook to my need. Plus their hooks are sharp right out of the box, and designed to perform.

Before I could afford to buy sharp hooks I would spend hours in front of the TV using a sharpening stone on all my hooks. I would sharpen the points on 3 sides until they passed the fingernail test (drag the hookpoing across a fingernail; when it is sharp it will stick instead of slide across your nail).

Be careful about using 2X and 4X hooks on jerkbaits and crankbaits not designed for them. They are heavier, and will affect the action (sometimes making the lure better and sometimes worse). If you aren't using line heavier than 20 pound test it is unlikely that you need 2X or 4X hooks.

ciao,
Marc
Comment by S Hwang on April 21, 2009 at 2:18pm
Wish i had sharper hooks on my lv500 at moses this past weekend hehe..

I do the fingernail scratch test like CB if I am actually checking.
Comment by Mike Guenther on April 19, 2009 at 9:14pm
I went to Joes the other day and bought all they had of size 4 Owner 2x. They didn't have any other sizes so I bought some 6's and 8's in Gamas for some of my smaller baits. Ended up with enough hooks to replace 1/2 of my crankbaits as well as most of my surface plugs. Tried my hand at sharpening a few, seemed OK, we'll see.
Comment by Daniel Bavery on April 19, 2009 at 7:42pm
I feel the only way to go is Owner 2x or 3x. Every last lure I have gets replacement to Owners, everytime including split rings to Owner Hyperwires. Ive straightened Gamas and Mustads, never an Owner, well, except for the regular ones but def not 2 or 3x.
Comment by Chris Blandi on April 17, 2009 at 2:15pm
After the huge tourny weekend, I'm sure you'll get lots of replies. I like Gamakatsu and Owner hooks. The way I test mine to see if they are sharp enough, is to run them across my thumbnail. If they dig hard, they are sharp. If they don't dig at all, get rid of those babies. I can't sharpen hooks at all, so I don't go there.
Comment by BigBass Dez on April 17, 2009 at 12:39pm
Hey Mike ,
I have a few rules i stick by then it relates to hooks and line . When im in a tourney i always use new line and new hooks period . I dont want to lose a fish in those situations and im not confident im my sharpen skills to reuse the same hook on tourney morning . As for testing hooks , i was taught a long time ago to simply gently place the point of the hook on one finger and slowly turn your finger about 30 degrees , if the hook doesnt fall off , your good if it falls you have a choice to make , go new or get out the file .

My lack of knowlege in perfecting the sharpen process has been very costly to me , because i will just replace with new ones . Hope this is somewhat helpful . sorry i couldnt be more helpful but i bet some the guys on here can show us how to work that file .

DEZ

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