Boat Starting Battery

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jordan Doucet on February 23, 2011 at 7:51pm

Agreed, i got the same one after nick's advice. No issues at all.

Permalink Reply by Marc Marcantonio on February 23, 2011 at 10:42pm

Good item to bring to everyone's attention, guys.  I would wager that most bass boats purchased within the last 3 or 4 years do not have an adequate starting battery; even from the factory.

 

With modern DFI engines and Four-stroke engines the starting battery needs to meet the minimum cranking amps the outboard manufacturer requires, which is usually a minimum of 1,000 amps.  Many get this part of their battery purchase correct.

 

What people fail to pay attention to is the Reserve Capacity of their starting battery.  Since the starting battery also has to power your aerators (biggest amp draw of most accessories), large screen gps/sonar units, gps antenna/receivers (yes, they draw power over and above the GPS display unit), various sensors, and other accessories, the battery has to provide power for extended periods of time. 

 

The problem shows up later in the day when you start your outboard and quickly pull a lot of amps from the starting battery.  You know it is too small when your computer grade Sonar/GPS units shut down when you start the outboard.  This happens when the battery doesn't have adequate power to handle all that is asked of it.

 

I highly recommend a starting battery that has a minimum of 200 minutes of Reserve Capacity.  The Trojan ST1100 battery meets this requirement and is what I used to run, but it is no longer available on the market.  There are several AGM batteries that are ideal that I would recommend, like the Sears DieHard Platinum that Nick and Jordan bought.  Also the Cabela's Grp 30 battery that I just installed on my Ranger.  Both of these have 205 minutes of Reserve Capacity, and way more CCA/MCA than required. 

 

It amazes me how much money we spend on rods and reels, and bass boats, and then skimp on the battery that is critical to the operation of our bassboat.  Check the Reserve Capacity of your battery!

 

ciao,

Marc Marcantonio

 

Permalink Reply by rzone on February 24, 2011 at 12:10am

This is rumored to be the same as the Sears PM1, I found that information after I bought this for my boat.

 

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/battspecs.html

 

31M-PC2150

 

I put it in with billet aluminum bracket (made for the battery), over kill I know, but I didn't want the thing to move around at all, and it doesn't.

 

 

I had a higher end Interstate (don't recall the model), but it had the cold crank amps for my ETEC 225. The issue is exactly as Marc states, after only a season on that Interstate, it would drop off at the end of the day and my Humminbird would restart, etc.. when cranking the ETEC.

 

The Odyssey is a beast, I can run live well and all electronics and at the end of the day the thing has plenty left. It is a heavy bastid though, so be warned about the extra 20+ LB you gain on Interstate or other similar group 27.

 

The place down in Seattle that has them gets pallets of them, so they are fresh, apparently Metro uses these for something.

Permalink Reply by Marc Marcantonio on February 24, 2011 at 7:38am

Yes, the Odyssey is the same battery as the Sears Platinum, just packaged for Sears.  It is an excellent choice.  Your bracket is NOT overkill, it is important if you ever are going to be in rough water.  I added one to my Ranger as well.  Plastic brackets or trays and straps won't hold a heavy battery in rough water.

 

Again, this is the nerve center of your entire boat; it should be reliable and secure or you are dead in the water.

 

ciao,
Marc

 

Permalink Reply by Nick Berto on February 24, 2011 at 4:31pm

Where did you get the bracket tie down?

rzone said:

This is rumored to be the same as the Sears PM1, I found that information after I bought this for my boat.

 

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/battspecs.html

 

31M-PC2150

 

I put it in with billet aluminum bracket (made for the battery), over kill I know, but I didn't want the thing to move around at all, and it doesn't.

 

 

I had a higher end Interstate (don't recall the model), but it had the cold crank amps for my ETEC 225. The issue is exactly as Marc states, after only a season on that Interstate, it would drop off at the end of the day and my Humminbird would restart, etc.. when cranking the ETEC.

 

The Odyssey is a beast, I can run live well and all electronics and at the end of the day the thing has plenty left. It is a heavy bastid though, so be warned about the extra 20+ LB you gain on Interstate or other similar group 27.

 

The place down in Seattle that has them gets pallets of them, so they are fresh, apparently Metro uses these for something.

Permalink Reply by Leroy Starling on February 25, 2011 at 4:41pm

So what three batteries or best on the trolling motor side. I've been using the Cabelas AGM's group size 27's but they never last but 1 season,but Cabelas has been good about exchanging them,so far.But I would hate to head to the TBF Divionals and them say sorry dude not again,it been like a yearly battery stop.

 

 : ) ,

         lstar

Permalink Reply by Nick Berto on February 25, 2011 at 5:52pm

I run interstate group 27 deep cycles (dont know the specifics off the top of my head). I keep them topped off and charged up on a four bank charger (one for the starting) and i think it is crucial to in order to get optimum life and performace.

 

Im sure Marc could give you a lot more details...

Permalink Reply by Marc Marcantonio on February 25, 2011 at 6:58pm

I would be concerned about your charger or your charging habits if you are only getting one year out of your batteries, especially AGM's.

 

I use 3 Trojan SCS225 batteries, and mine have been used hard for 3 years and are still going strong.  Your AGM's should last longer.  I use a Stealth1 Charging system which keeps my batteries charged even out on the water (charges them from the outboard).  This keeps them from getting deeply cycled.  I also charge them immediately when off the water. 

 

Leaving a battery that is partially charged in that state for even 12 hours begins to degrade the battery and its life by sulphating the plates.  Keeping a full charge is the best way to prevent sulphation of the plates.

 

Boat batteries are not like your cell phone battery, or flashlight batteries, etc.  The best way to protect them is to charge them as much as you can to always keep them as close to full charge as possible.  Draining them down hard is the worst thing you can do to a flooded cell battery.  It will sulphate the plates quicker (which prevents them from accepting and holding a charge), and it causes your charger to aggressively charge the battery which can heat the plates and cause them to warp, and even short out.

 

So use a good charger and always put the batteries on charge, even if you only used them a little. 

 

ciao,
Marc Marcantonio

Leroy Starling said:

So what three batteries or best on the trolling motor side. I've been using the Cabelas AGM's group size 27's but they never last but 1 season,but Cabelas has been good about exchanging them,so far.But I would hate to head to the TBF Divionals and them say sorry dude not again,it been like a yearly battery stop.

 

 : ) ,

         lstar

Permalink Reply by rzone on February 26, 2011 at 10:56am

Nick, I got it here:

 

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/accessories/billet.htm

 

Mike

 

NickBerto said:

Where did you get the bracket tie down?

Permalink Reply by Marc Marcantonio on February 26, 2011 at 4:45pm

A less expensive option for the battery tray that is still solid is the aluminum battery tray at Cabela's for only $12.  It attaches to the bottom with 4 screws, and comes with a heavy duty strap that goes under the tray and around the battery.  There is no reason to have a plastic battery tray with these available for only $12.

 

ciao,
Marc

Permalink Reply by Mike Bess on February 26, 2011 at 10:44pm

Marc,

What is the benefit of aluminum vs. plastic? 

Marc Marcantonio said:

A less expensive option for the battery tray that is still solid is the aluminum battery tray at Cabela's for only $12.  It attaches to the bottom with 4 screws, and comes with a heavy duty strap that goes under the tray and around the battery.  There is no reason to have a plastic battery tray with these available for only $12.

 

ciao,
Marc

Permalink Reply by John McHenry on February 27, 2011 at 3:05pm

Marc, is this it? http://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/AutoBoat-Batteries-Chargers/... 

Marc Marcantonio said:

A less expensive option for the battery tray that is still solid is the aluminum battery tray at Cabela's for only $12.  It attaches to the bottom with 4 screws, and comes with a heavy duty strap that goes under the tray and around the battery.  There is no reason to have a plastic battery tray with these available for only $12.

 

ciao,
Marc

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