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Am I wrong for sticking to mostly square bill cranks? I catch alot of fish with them, but think I'm missing something, I have a few deep divers but allways go back to square bill, just wondering you think 

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Thats funny, all I throw is deep divers or round bill cranks.  I've bought a few square bills to try this season.  Why do you like the square bill so much?  For the most part doesn't it pin you into fishing 5' of less.  I've had zero experience with square bills so I'm just asking.

I'm no expert but square bills are meant for shallower water with structure the cranks can bounce off of.  If your catching fish on them your not missing anything.  If your not and conditions suggest to you the fish maybe deeper then go with the deep divers.  I use square bills 6-8 feet and shallower, usually around wood, docks, and such.  Heading out deeper I look for drop offs, ledges, a rock, "structure" on the bottom with my sonar and will switch to deeper diving cranks if things (usually my gut because my sonar sucks) tell me the fish are there.  There's my 2 cents and I'll bet some of the more experienced guys will have much more than me to offer...

The square bills, hunt more when compared to a round bill.

Zach Chandler said:

Thats funny, all I throw is deep divers or round bill cranks.  I've bought a few square bills to try this season.  Why do you like the square bill so much?  For the most part doesn't it pin you into fishing 5' of less.  I've had zero experience with square bills so I'm just asking.

I really think you are missing out not using other styles of crankbaits, luhr jensen has a great lip in the hot lips series, it is a tri-lobe, and the little N series are also great baits with a round lip, if you don't have a few shad raps than shame on you it is a mainstay. There are suspending cranks that are highly productive as well. What kind of square bills are you using, anything with a square bill, or a flat sided square bill, some of the alphabet series baits have square bills, so does the luhr jensen speed trap, RC series, there are tons of them.  There are also square bills made of different materials.  

 

Each crank I feel has its optimum running depth and I will adjust accordingly, if you are throwing your square bills in 4 feet of water a deeper diver probably wont work as well as it.  I have some cranks that have different rattles and profiles that have different type lips, I don't really think it is the lip as much as the sound, color, action, and getting to the sweet spot is number 1. 

 

Realistically if you feel that your square bills are catching you a sufficient amount of fish than by all means stick with it. 

 

I see it as one tool, does a carpenter have just a hammer in his tool belt?  NO, so why should a fisherman have only one tool in his tackle box?

I look at it this way.  The reason there are sooooo many types of crankbaits is because they are all good for different situations and have their place.  Depth, water clarity, cover type, structure scenario, bottom composition all different factors to consider when choosing a plug sometimes... There are so many variables on crankbaits themselves, but I feel like bill type is one that you don't want to get married to because that is what controls the diving depth.  You surely don't want to be limited to fishing 5ft or less in this state!   

I fish alot at Potholes, and most of my fishing is 2 -12 with wood and trash so it help keep the hooks cleaner.
 Zach try a Speedtrap in 1/4 oz. I think you'll like them,( crystal craw on banks)
Zach Chandler said:

Thats funny, all I throw is deep divers or round bill cranks.  I've bought a few square bills to try this season.  Why do you like the square bill so much?  For the most part doesn't it pin you into fishing 5' of less.  I've had zero experience with square bills so I'm just asking.

P.J. thanks Iknow I need to try different things, I throw a Strikeking series 5 and Rapala sr7 and 8 but I'll put them down alot quicker than a square bill. need to leave my square bills at home and give the others more of a chance
 
P.J. Koshi said:

I look at it this way.  The reason there are sooooo many types of crankbaits is because they are all good for different situations and have their place.  Depth, water clarity, cover type, structure scenario, bottom composition all different factors to consider when choosing a plug sometimes... There are so many variables on crankbaits themselves, but I feel like bill type is one that you don't want to get married to because that is what controls the diving depth.  You surely don't want to be limited to fishing 5ft or less in this state!   

I agree

Ronald Hobbs, Jr. said:

I really think you are missing out not using other styles of crankbaits, luhr jensen has a great lip in the hot lips series, it is a tri-lobe, and the little N series are also great baits with a round lip, if you don't have a few shad raps than shame on you it is a mainstay. There are suspending cranks that are highly productive as well. What kind of square bills are you using, anything with a square bill, or a flat sided square bill, some of the alphabet series baits have square bills, so does the luhr jensen speed trap, RC series, there are tons of them.  There are also square bills made of different materials.  

 

Each crank I feel has its optimum running depth and I will adjust accordingly, if you are throwing your square bills in 4 feet of water a deeper diver probably wont work as well as it.  I have some cranks that have different rattles and profiles that have different type lips, I don't really think it is the lip as much as the sound, color, action, and getting to the sweet spot is number 1. 

 

Realistically if you feel that your square bills are catching you a sufficient amount of fish than by all means stick with it. 

 

I see it as one tool, does a carpenter have just a hammer in his tool belt?  NO, so why should a fisherman have only one tool in his tackle box?

I need to fish more with different people get more ideas

Chris J. Spencer said:

I'm no expert but square bills are meant for shallower water with structure the cranks can bounce off of.  If your catching fish on them your not missing anything.  If your not and conditions suggest to you the fish maybe deeper then go with the deep divers.  I use square bills 6-8 feet and shallower, usually around wood, docks, and such.  Heading out deeper I look for drop offs, ledges, a rock, "structure" on the bottom with my sonar and will switch to deeper diving cranks if things (usually my gut because my sonar sucks) tell me the fish are there.  There's my 2 cents and I'll bet some of the more experienced guys will have much more than me to offer...

I have and fish more different crankbaits than Emelda Marcos has shoes.  The number of variables possible in crankbait design are overwhelming, and each variable makes each crankbait better or worse at any given moment. 

You constantly need to experiment and change crankbait styles, colors, and models until you find what works at that time and place.  This can seem overwhelming, and I recommend experimenting and observing as much as possible.  Just because one crankbait is not successful on any given trip, don't be quick to give up on it as the next trip that same lure could be on fire.

 

The need to constantly experiment often exceeds one's patience in constantly having to tie on a new lure.  This is one of many reasons why I highly recommend removing all your line tie split rings and using a quality stainless steel snap in its place.  These snaps make changing your crankbaits quick and easy, so you are more likely to experiment and more quickly learn the best lure for the day.

 

Realize there are many more variables than bill shape, or lure color, or lure weight, or lure size.  Those are all the obvious features.  Often it is equally important to learn how the use of different materials affect a crankbait.  For instance, both square bill and round bill crankbaits can have the lips made with integrated Lucite, or they could be circuit board plastic (found on premium wood lures).  The lure body can be made from plastic (various types of plastic change the sound and action of the lure), or the body can be made from balsa, cedar, jelutong, or other materials. 

 

If you think these details do not make a difference, you are missing out on a lot of fish.  For instance, there is a reason why guys search Ebay and old stores for old Speed Traps or vintage Wiggle Warts.  The old ones catch bass like mad, while the new ones are often ignored, yet they look identical.  The old versions used a different plastic and the plastic was not as thick, which affects the action of these lures. 

 

Most production crankbaits that are inexpensive are not consistent even within their own product model.  I can buy a half dozen Norman Deep Little N's and out of that group I will find one or two that are lights out, and the other 4 are junk even though they may seem fine during the retrieve.

 

In most cases the high end crankbaits (Lucky Craft, etc.) are manufactured to more exacting standards, and they are far more consistent in action, sound, water displacement, etc. and more importantly produce consistent results (good or bad depending on model).

 

I think fishing crankbaits is overall the most exciting way to fish (even more than topwaters for me because I can catch fish on crankbaits more often and consistently).  I believe I have also won more money and caught more big bass on crankbaits than any other method.  When you get a crankbait bite figured out, you can load the boat until you wear your arms out!

 

ciao,
Marc Marcantonio

I think because of all the choices it gets confusing, I need to experment more, thanks
 
Marc Marcantonio said:

I have and fish more different crankbaits than Emelda Marcos has shoes.  The number of variables possible in crankbait design are overwhelming, and each variable makes each crankbait better or worse at any given moment. 

You constantly need to experiment and change crankbait styles, colors, and models until you find what works at that time and place.  This can seem overwhelming, and I recommend experimenting and observing as much as possible.  Just because one crankbait is not successful on any given trip, don't be quick to give up on it as the next trip that same lure could be on fire.

 

The need to constantly experiment often exceeds one's patience in constantly having to tie on a new lure.  This is one of many reasons why I highly recommend removing all your line tie split rings and using a quality stainless steel snap in its place.  These snaps make changing your crankbaits quick and easy, so you are more likely to experiment and more quickly learn the best lure for the day.

 

Realize there are many more variables than bill shape, or lure color, or lure weight, or lure size.  Those are all the obvious features.  Often it is equally important to learn how the use of different materials affect a crankbait.  For instance, both square bill and round bill crankbaits can have the lips made with integrated Lucite, or they could be circuit board plastic (found on premium wood lures).  The lure body can be made from plastic (various types of plastic change the sound and action of the lure), or the body can be made from balsa, cedar, jelutong, or other materials. 

 

If you think these details do not make a difference, you are missing out on a lot of fish.  For instance, there is a reason why guys search Ebay and old stores for old Speed Traps or vintage Wiggle Warts.  The old ones catch bass like mad, while the new ones are often ignored, yet they look identical.  The old versions used a different plastic and the plastic was not as thick, which affects the action of these lures. 

 

Most production crankbaits that are inexpensive are not consistent even within their own product model.  I can buy a half dozen Norman Deep Little N's and out of that group I will find one or two that are lights out, and the other 4 are junk even though they may seem fine during the retrieve.

 

In most cases the high end crankbaits (Lucky Craft, etc.) are manufactured to more exacting standards, and they are far more consistent in action, sound, water displacement, etc. and more importantly produce consistent results (good or bad depending on model).

 

I think fishing crankbaits is overall the most exciting way to fish (even more than topwaters for me because I can catch fish on crankbaits more often and consistently).  I believe I have also won more money and caught more big bass on crankbaits than any other method.  When you get a crankbait bite figured out, you can load the boat until you wear your arms out!

 

ciao,
Marc Marcantonio

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