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Not knowing anything about fixing a boat maybe somebody could possibly help us out. We have a 20ft pontoon and were out fishing with everything running fine. After a drift I turned the key and the engine just about starts but doesn't. I turn the key again and nothing happens. It was dead. The lights and electronics on the boat still work. I did notice that when you push button on the throttle that lifts the motor out of the water it no longer works either. Could anybody give me any ideas where to start?

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Check the voltage on your batteries.

 

Russ

I didn't have anything to check it with. I took it home and placed it on the charger overnight and the charger says it was fully charged. It didn't make any difference though when I put it back on the boat. Can a battery die that quickly or be partially dead? Like I was saying, everything else (lights, electronics) still work fine.

yes make sure that to check the connection to the battery and also the connection to the starter. sometimes the battery cables corrosion can be found under the shielding, so check there also check your battery state of charge because even if your eletronics and lights work, it uses more power to start your motor
When the up above say check your battery conections they are really saying "clean them with good wire brush". Good luck
Depending on just how much you have running off this single battery I would look into converting to a dual battery system for a 20ft Pontoon boat.  The motor I am guessing is upwards of 75hp and if you have a lighting system and electronics running on it I would think it may be smart to have a battery for the motor and a battery for the rest especially if there is a trolling motor or anything else.  If you want to stay with a single battery configuration look into the ones in this link http://www.wafish.com/group/bassfishing/forum/topics/boat-starting-...
If your motor has a kill switch, you might check that as well.
There is either a loose or corroded connection on the start switch, battery connection or the starter cable. When charger indicates a fully charged battery, as you say lights and electonics work. They draw very little amperage. Now starting draws lots of amps. When you have a loose or corroded connection, the amps just don't get to where you need them.....in this case the starter. Look closely at start switch, it's connections, battery wires/connections and the starter connections.
Thanks for the info everybody. I guess I was thinking that if the battery was going bad it would be similar to an automobile in that the car would try to turn over but wouldn't quite do it. The boat was just DEAD and it occurred so suddenly without warning. It cranked without hesitation when we left the dock. I hope this is the problem because it's an easy fix. Thanks again.
Your battery is most likely shot. You almost need new ones every year. Your charger will still show it as being charged but if you put a voltage tester on it and you don't show 12-14 amps it's shot. I just replaced one of my batteries only 6 months old and have 6 dead batteries in my garage from the last 4 years of boat ownership.
I was real lucky in that there was very little wind and I had a charged battery for the trolling motor. Nobody was on the lake, it was getting close to dark and we were fishing the point just south of the Seahawks training facility. It took us a little over two hours but it got us back to Newport where we have the boat moored. I don't think it would have gone another 100 yards.

Do the deep cycle batteries that you use for trolling motors have enough juice to use as a starting battery when you're in a pinch?

Unfortunatley, it wasn't the battery. Anybody have any other suggestions before I bite the bullet?

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