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I'm having trouble with fluoro breaking on my Curado's. It's not breaking at the knot but much further down in the reel. It's tending to break with heavier crankbaits (lipless or deep diving) when making long cast or breaking when setting the hook. When I look at where it broke it's not frayed but it seems like it has a kink. Normally when throwing baits like LV-500's, you never backlash them so I can't figure out what's going on. Anybody ever had this problem? 

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Replies to This Discussion

I am a huge fluorocarbon fan and believe it has a lot of benefits for all but a few select applications.  These days, I find myself fishing with braid to a fluorocarbon leader almost exclusively.  It really seems to be the best of both worlds, I just need to adjust my rod actions slightly for certain techniques.

John, I like to use TUF-Line XP in 30, 40, 50, 65 and 80 on my baitcasters.  I like the way it handles and performs, and it is a great value as well. 

 

Logan,

I think the problem is simpler that you might think. I have to admit I didn't read all the posts so I may be repeating some ideas. 

I've seen this issue. Experienced it.  Fluorocarbon has significant memory challenges so doing many of the things that have been mentioned will help, but at the finer level the reason its breaking is because of un-clear backlashes.  Experiment by, after every cast making sure you do not have any small loops caused by minor backlashes. If you do clear them fully after ever cast. Do this for the entire day or for a few hours and see if your problem goes away. I'm betting it will.

To solve it, use line conditioners as mentioned, start your day by attaching your line on a hook and attaching it to a post and pulling out about two cast lengths and put a small about of stretch in the line to remove any curl that may exist. Spray line conditioner on as you reel it back in. Re-tie any hooks.

Experiment with your cast control and anti-backlash setting to eliminate your backlashes.

Avoid casting overly hard this usually causes backlashes

The key to remember is any  backlash that causes a sudden stop in the line has put a potential break point in your line.  Inspect those spots closely, estimate how much line you have out so if it breaks you can confirm this as your solution.

Keep clearing those backlashes and keep your casts smoooooooth.

Good Luck

Steve

Tag,

 

I was doing some tackle maintenance last night and realized of the 12 rods I had strung all but 3 had braid on them. It used to be more like 4 or 5. I was really second guessing myself when I looked at that but am encouraged to hear that I may not be crazy. I still believe that it's not appropriate for everything but clearly has more uses than I originally thought. Could you give a couple examples of applications where you adjusted the rod action to compensate for the braid? I think I am using braid on some rods that are the right specs for normal line but maybe not for braid. Thanks in advance...

Tag Watson said:

I am a huge fluorocarbon fan and believe it has a lot of benefits for all but a few select applications.  These days, I find myself fishing with braid to a fluorocarbon leader almost exclusively.  It really seems to be the best of both worlds, I just need to adjust my rod actions slightly for certain techniques.

John, I like to use TUF-Line XP in 30, 40, 50, 65 and 80 on my baitcasters.  I like the way it handles and performs, and it is a great value as well. 

 

Hey there Josh,

In the past, I liked to flip/pitch jigs and Texas-rigs with fluorocarbon, with the exception of punching heavy cover or matted vegetation.  I have since transitioned to using either straight braid, or braid to a fluorocarbon leader, depending on the cover and water clarity.  I think the G.Loomis BCFR894 and BCFR954 are great flipping sticks for fluorocarbon or copolymer/monofilament lines.  However, for braided line applications, I believe these rods are too fast of an action.  For braid, I prefer the Lamiglas XL7116 due to its more moderate action.  I have much more confidence that a fish will stay buttoned up with the way this rod loads during the fight.  The sensitivity of the braid is exceptional.  Also, the handful of quality jig fish I have hooked in the couple times I've been out this year were hooked so well, it would have been nearly impossible for them to come unzipped.

I stepped down a power in my rods for deep structure jig fishing as well when I made the transition last Fall to all braid/fluoro.  Again, extreme sensitivity and killer hooksets even at the end of a long cast.  I used to reserve braid for when I was fishing consistently deeper than 35 feet or so, but now prefer braid for all depths.  The same thing goes for the big swimbaits.  I prefer a more moderate action with the braid to fluoro.  This preference applies to spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and treble hook topwaters as well.

I still prefer straight fluoro for jerkbaits, crankbaits and some smallmouth swimbait applications where I want some inherent stretch.

In conclusion, I believe there are huge benefits to braided line for many techniques, but using the proper rod action is critical to hooking and landing fish.

Josh Potter said:

Tag,

 

I was doing some tackle maintenance last night and realized of the 12 rods I had strung all but 3 had braid on them. It used to be more like 4 or 5. I was really second guessing myself when I looked at that but am encouraged to hear that I may not be crazy. I still believe that it's not appropriate for everything but clearly has more uses than I originally thought. Could you give a couple examples of applications where you adjusted the rod action to compensate for the braid? I think I am using braid on some rods that are the right specs for normal line but maybe not for braid. Thanks in advance...

Tag Watson said:

I am a huge fluorocarbon fan and believe it has a lot of benefits for all but a few select applications.  These days, I find myself fishing with braid to a fluorocarbon leader almost exclusively.  It really seems to be the best of both worlds, I just need to adjust my rod actions slightly for certain techniques.

John, I like to use TUF-Line XP in 30, 40, 50, 65 and 80 on my baitcasters.  I like the way it handles and performs, and it is a great value as well. 

 

Personally, I think most of the rod actions these days are too fast, but definitely too fast for braid.  I agree with Tag in backing off of rod actions, but I would recommend that even without using braid.  I think a mod-fast action is best for most applications.  

I really haven't found much negative with going all braid.  I was hesitant to do so with treble-hook lures, but have found I can be really versatile by using different flouros and even monos as leader depending on what I want out of the crank, topwater, or jerkbait.  Longer leader lengths will also give me more shock absorption.  It becomes pretty easy to switch from a 12-15 lb mono leader for shallow cranking to a 8-10 lb flouro for deeper cranking.   

I agree 100% on the rod actions on the market these days, regardless of the type of line being used.  Great input as well on the use of braid with crankbaits and jerkbaits.  I definitely need to give this a try.  Always learn a ton from your posts.  Thanks, Don!     

Don Hogue said:

Personally, I think most of the rod actions these days are too fast, but definitely too fast for braid.  I agree with Tag in backing off of rod actions, but I would recommend that even without using braid.  I think a mod-fast action is best for most applications.  

I really haven't found much negative with going all braid.  I was hesitant to do so with treble-hook lures, but have found I can be really versatile by using different flouros and even monos as leader depending on what I want out of the crank, topwater, or jerkbait.  Longer leader lengths will also give me more shock absorption.  It becomes pretty easy to switch from a 12-15 lb mono leader for shallow cranking to a 8-10 lb flouro for deeper cranking.   

Thanks Tag and Don,

The only thing I haven't been using braid for is cranks, spinner baits and buzz baits but I might be giving those a shot as well. />

Tag Watson said:

Hey there Josh,

In the past, I liked to flip/pitch jigs and Texas-rigs with fluorocarbon, with the exception of punching heavy cover or matted vegetation.  I have since transitioned to using either straight braid, or braid to a fluorocarbon leader, depending on the cover and water clarity.  I think the G.Loomis BCFR894 and BCFR954 are great flipping sticks for fluorocarbon or copolymer/monofilament lines.  However, for braided line applications, I believe these rods are too fast of an action.  For braid, I prefer the Lamiglas XL7116 due to its more moderate action.  I have much more confidence that a fish will stay buttoned up with the way this rod loads during the fight.  The sensitivity of the braid is exceptional.  Also, the handful of quality jig fish I have hooked in the couple times I've been out this year were hooked so well, it would have been nearly impossible for them to come unzipped.

I stepped down a power in my rods for deep structure jig fishing as well when I made the transition last Fall to all braid/fluoro.  Again, extreme sensitivity and killer hooksets even at the end of a long cast.  I used to reserve braid for when I was fishing consistently deeper than 35 feet or so, but now prefer braid for all depths.  The same thing goes for the big swimbaits.  I prefer a more moderate action with the braid to fluoro.  This preference applies to spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and treble hook topwaters as well.

I still prefer straight fluoro for jerkbaits, crankbaits and some smallmouth swimbait applications where I want some inherent stretch.

In conclusion, I believe there are huge benefits to braided line for many techniques, but using the proper rod action is critical to hooking and landing fish.

Josh Potter said:

Tag,

 

I was doing some tackle maintenance last night and realized of the 12 rods I had strung all but 3 had braid on them. It used to be more like 4 or 5. I was really second guessing myself when I looked at that but am encouraged to hear that I may not be crazy. I still believe that it's not appropriate for everything but clearly has more uses than I originally thought. Could you give a couple examples of applications where you adjusted the rod action to compensate for the braid? I think I am using braid on some rods that are the right specs for normal line but maybe not for braid. Thanks in advance...

Tag Watson said:

I am a huge fluorocarbon fan and believe it has a lot of benefits for all but a few select applications.  These days, I find myself fishing with braid to a fluorocarbon leader almost exclusively.  It really seems to be the best of both worlds, I just need to adjust my rod actions slightly for certain techniques.

John, I like to use TUF-Line XP in 30, 40, 50, 65 and 80 on my baitcasters.  I like the way it handles and performs, and it is a great value as well. 

 

You'll really love the braid on buzzbaits.

Josh Potter said:

Thanks Tag and Don,

The only thing I haven't been using braid for is cranks, spinner baits and buzz baits but I might be giving those a shot as well. />

Tag Watson said:

Hey there Josh,

In the past, I liked to flip/pitch jigs and Texas-rigs with fluorocarbon, with the exception of punching heavy cover or matted vegetation.  I have since transitioned to using either straight braid, or braid to a fluorocarbon leader, depending on the cover and water clarity.  I think the G.Loomis BCFR894 and BCFR954 are great flipping sticks for fluorocarbon or copolymer/monofilament lines.  However, for braided line applications, I believe these rods are too fast of an action.  For braid, I prefer the Lamiglas XL7116 due to its more moderate action.  I have much more confidence that a fish will stay buttoned up with the way this rod loads during the fight.  The sensitivity of the braid is exceptional.  Also, the handful of quality jig fish I have hooked in the couple times I've been out this year were hooked so well, it would have been nearly impossible for them to come unzipped.

I stepped down a power in my rods for deep structure jig fishing as well when I made the transition last Fall to all braid/fluoro.  Again, extreme sensitivity and killer hooksets even at the end of a long cast.  I used to reserve braid for when I was fishing consistently deeper than 35 feet or so, but now prefer braid for all depths.  The same thing goes for the big swimbaits.  I prefer a more moderate action with the braid to fluoro.  This preference applies to spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and treble hook topwaters as well.

I still prefer straight fluoro for jerkbaits, crankbaits and some smallmouth swimbait applications where I want some inherent stretch.

In conclusion, I believe there are huge benefits to braided line for many techniques, but using the proper rod action is critical to hooking and landing fish.

Josh Potter said:

Tag,

 

I was doing some tackle maintenance last night and realized of the 12 rods I had strung all but 3 had braid on them. It used to be more like 4 or 5. I was really second guessing myself when I looked at that but am encouraged to hear that I may not be crazy. I still believe that it's not appropriate for everything but clearly has more uses than I originally thought. Could you give a couple examples of applications where you adjusted the rod action to compensate for the braid? I think I am using braid on some rods that are the right specs for normal line but maybe not for braid. Thanks in advance...

Tag Watson said:

I am a huge fluorocarbon fan and believe it has a lot of benefits for all but a few select applications.  These days, I find myself fishing with braid to a fluorocarbon leader almost exclusively.  It really seems to be the best of both worlds, I just need to adjust my rod actions slightly for certain techniques.

John, I like to use TUF-Line XP in 30, 40, 50, 65 and 80 on my baitcasters.  I like the way it handles and performs, and it is a great value as well. 

 

YOU GO GIRL!!!!

Clif Kincaid said:

I use braid on all my topwater lures! I have complete confidence in power pro braid 50lb and using a improved clinch knot. I use a glxmbr843 and a revo hs reel. Until this setup fails me I won't change it.

+1 the only ones I ever fish are gunfish and some assorted poppers in arizona and always use braid for these.
 
Clif Kincaid said:

I use braid on all my topwater lures! I have complete confidence in power pro braid 50lb and using a improved clinch knot. I use a glxmbr843 and a revo hs reel. Until this setup fails me I won't change it.

Well i think i have solved my Fluoro problems recenty !!  

I just coverted over too Power pro Super slick braid and im loving everything about it for the most part . Im running 20lb braid to 15lb leader for my football head rod and 10lb braid to 8lb leader for dropshot , im also100% braid on my topwater rods (frogs & spooks)

 

The only down side in my opinion is just the time it takes to re tie leaders while on the water . IMO thats a small price to pay compared to the advantages of using braid . Honestly i wasnt a big fan of braid to leader in the past but now that power pro  has come out with this new super slick coating it makes casting braid a dream , even better than Tuff line braid IMHO ...  just thought it would be a good ideal to my share thoughts on the subject  , thanks for suggesting the line Jordan :)

Hey Dez,

Just as an FYI, TUF-Line has two new products debuting at I-CAST next month.  One is a sinking braid with 15% more strength for subsurface applications.

http://www.angling-international.com/efttex-nominee/western-filamen...

The other is a braid with added lubricity and better handling, likely a competitive response to Power Pro's Super Slick.

http://icastfishing.org/uploads/SUPERCAST_PRESS_RELEASE_6412.pdf

Let us know down the road how the Power Pro Super Slick holds up in the lighter lb. tests (30 and under) this season as I have read several reviews and heard from a couple people recently that it has some breakage problems.  I have always been a huge fan of the original Power Pro and think it is a top notch braid.  Would recommend it to anyone for finesse spinning applications to heavy-duty casting applications.  Based on the early feedback, I'm interested to try the Super Slick to see if it can withstand similar punishment as the original.

Keep us posted!


BigBass Dez said:

Well i think i have solved my Fluoro problems recenty !!  

I just coverted over too Power pro Super slick braid and im loving everything about it for the most part . Im running 20lb braid to 15lb leader for my football head rod and 10lb braid to 8lb leader for dropshot , im also100% braid on my topwater rods (frogs & spooks)

 

The only down side in my opinion is just the time it takes to re tie leaders while on the water . IMO thats a small price to pay compared to the advantages of using braid . Honestly i wasnt a big fan of braid to leader in the past but now that power pro  has come out with this new super slick coating it makes casting braid a dream , even better than Tuff line braid IMHO ...  just thought it would be a good ideal to my share thoughts on the subject  , thanks for suggesting the line Jordan :)

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