Straight fluro vs. braid to fluro

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by anthony white on January 9, 2013 at 8:41pm

Some people do that to save money on line but in the long run why have more knots in your line than needed just stick with straight flouro and stop the headache imo fish hard and keep it simple

Permalink Reply by Don Hogue on January 9, 2013 at 9:52pm

I like how FC is tough, sinks well, has better sensitivity than mono and is harder to see in the water.  I hate how it handles.  It seems the better the quality of FC, the worse it handles.  By "handle", I mean it's resistance to memory, how it lays on the spool and ultimately how hard is it to deal with and cast.  A backlash with FC is a certain line breakage down the road.  On spinning gear, FC will develop too much memory for my liking and just won't handle very well after a few months of use compared to braid.  I also don't like the costs of FC.  I've spent lots of money spooling on 10# FC only to want and use 12# or 8# later on - like the next day!  Now, since I'm using the FC for leaders, I only use the FC leader material, not the stuff you would fill a reel with - I learned that the hard way.  The FC leader material is extra tough.  FC designed to put on the reel often sacrifices some of the good things about FC in order to be more manageable.   

I like how braided lines handle, cast, and their sensitivity.  Also the fact that they will last me at least a full season and often times a couple of seasons.  I don't like how visible they are or how they do being hung up in rock or being wrapped around wood or woody types of vegetation (willows for example).  

I like the shock (elasticity) of mono and that it will carry bait higher in the water column.

In the end, I feel I can get the "best of both worlds" so to speak by using a braided mainline with a FC or Mono leader.  The braid will seldom have to be changed and I can go from using a frog or topwater to fishing a worm deep by just simply adding a length of FC.  But mostly, it's about having the zero memory, and ease of handling and durability that braid offers while still keeping the other good things about FC or mono.  

Most of my spinning gear, I use a small swivel and 4-6 ft of FC leader unless I'm fishing something like a tube that I feel will get hung up a bunch, then I'll use maybe 10 yards of FC leader (reg. FC).  When tying on leaders, I tie either a uni to uni, or the alberto knot.  I'll use 5-7 ft of leader, usually just short of where the knot would wind onto the spool.  

Negatives?  Well, you have to be confident and good with your knots and recognize when you haven't tied a good one and start over.  You also have to put some time and thought into how different size and types of lines/leaders will do with different lures and techniques.  I kind of enjoy all that...gives me something to think about in the winter.  

One last thing.  You also will have to take rod actions into account.  I think slower action rods are the way to go with braid.  I don't use any "extra-fast" action rods with the braid, and mostly "mod-fast" action rods.  This has been a 3-4 year process for me so far.  I'd recommend picking a technique or two you are not using it with now and seeing how it works for you.

Permalink Reply by D.J. LaRoche on January 10, 2013 at 7:49am

Great post Don.  Where are you getting your leader material at?  What kind do you like?

Permalink Reply by Don Hogue on January 10, 2013 at 9:11am

I'm able to find the P-Line leader material at Wholesale Sports in Tri Cities. The Seaguar leader material I've had to order online. I like both, but the P-Line FC leader is easier for me to get so I use that most often.

Permalink Reply by BigBass Dez on January 10, 2013 at 11:19am

Well said Mr Hogue , I agree 100% with everything mentioned above . Honestly the main reason i have converted over to  running Braid to FC/MONO leaders had a lot to do with simply satisfying my own curiosity .

I wanted to know if i was missing more bites by running FC spools , The answer is YES . I also wanted to know if using braid would help me land more Bass overall, The answer is YES . The last major benifit that i love about braid is that it does save me a ton of $ though out the tourney season . I dont have worry anymore about purchasing new spools of FC just because of a few weak spots in my line due to backlash or Line Fray .  

 

As it stands , I now use Braid for just about everything i run with the exception of cranking (Mono4Life) . With that being said  yes There are a few things that i dislike about running braid . Snags !! geez , i hate pulling the boat around due to snags HaHaHa  I also hate how braid can and "will" leave a nice Slice your hand or fingers from yanking on it , RESPECT your braid or you will bleed to death :) 

 

So Over all when i Compare Braid spools vs FC spools i can honestly says that  I lose less bass and feel more bites and save more money through out the season. If nothing else , that is a good enough reason for me to justify my convertion to the world of ROPE for the majority of rigging :)   

 

I do feel the need to also point out a few things about converting over to braid that i had to learn the hard way on the water .

As Don mentioned above , the proper action in your bass rods is critical  . If your using fast action rods you will lose a lot of fish . I agree that Mod-fast is the perfect action in a rod which is key IMO to running braid . I use P-line FC leader line (black label) for joining  my lines and i compete this process with a Modified Albright Knot (super strong knot) . I also found out that "FC leader line" is made up completely different then "Spooling FC line" . 14lb spool FC is not as strong or as abrasive resistant than 14lb FC LEADER line period , dont lie to yourself .

The last thing i wanted to point out is in regards to hook sets . I had to switch up guys !! I found that since im using line with no stretch i had to learn more of "sweeping" motion on the majority of my hook sets . The sweeping motion will prevent you from yanking your hook out of bass mouth after the bite has taken place . This method is especially important when you tossing reaction baits like Jerk baits , top water baits , spinner baits . Now a day i love the fact that when i get a strike on my top water plugs i can simply rely on my line (braid) and my Rod (mod-fast action) to simply load up before i start reeling down on the fish :)  

 

I could go into much more detail about running braid but i think it's clear as to the reason why it works for me . If your comfortable in using your FC spools and it works for how "you" fish dont change anything your doing . Coverting over to braid is not something that you will become at ease with over night . There is a transition period that you have to go through in order to be 100% comfortable and Confidence with it . I glad that i started using at the beginning of last years season as opposed to mid/late tourney season !!    Okay guys thats my thoughts on the topic  :)

 

Dez "The junior"

 

 

Permalink Reply by P.J. Koshi on January 10, 2013 at 7:03pm

I have a question.  What is the lowest lb test you go when joining braid to Flouro?  I too am doing the braid to flouro program for a lot of applications, but I refuse to join any braid to 4lb test flouro! I have had a lot of success fishing 8lb braid joined to 5lb flourocarbon the last couple years, but 4lb test just seems too thin and fragile to absorb the knot joining the lines together.  I agree with everything that Don and Dez have said regarding the use of braid to flouro leaders.  

Permalink Reply by BigBass Dez on January 11, 2013 at 9:52am

Pj ,

Im running 20lb braid (6lb dia) to 8lb Sunline F/C on my drop shot . I dont go any lower then 20lb braid .. If i feel the need to use anything smaller then 8lb F/C , out comes the spool of 5lb Sunline F/C . You are correct about attempting to join braid to 4lb F/C,  super sketchy IMO .

P.J. Koshi said:

I have a question.  What is the lowest lb test you go when joining braid to Flouro?  I too am doing the braid to flouro program for a lot of applications, but I refuse to join any braid to 4lb test flouro! I have had a lot of success fishing 8lb braid joined to 5lb flourocarbon the last couple years, but 4lb test just seems too thin and fragile to absorb the knot joining the lines together.  I agree with everything that Don and Dez have said regarding the use of braid to flouro leaders.  

Permalink Reply by Marc Marcantonio on January 11, 2013 at 11:00pm

Dropshotting: straight fluorocarbon when using 4-8 lb test.  It is important to retie often; braid with a leader causes me to not retie often enough.  I do not have line management problems since I have learned how to prevent line twist.  Quality fluorocarbon like Sugoi casts with ease.

 

Dropshotting: When using 10lb or more I usually use braid with fluorocarbon leaders.  I really like this when fishing around weedbeds.

 

Crankbaits and Jerkbaits:  straight fluorocarbon for many jerkbaits and cranks, and straight mono for others.  All depends on the buoyancy of the lure, whether it sinks, suspends, or rises, how straight I need my line from rod tip to the lure, and what I want the lure to do.

 

Topwaters:  Use straight mono for big topwaters.  For smaller poppers like Sugoi Splashes or Lucky Craft S-8's, or Small Sammy's, I use light braid for casting distance and hook sets, and stiff mono leaders to float and keep out of the hooks.

 

Spinnerbaits:  Straight fluorocarbon or mono.

 

Football Jigs:  generally straight fluorocarbon, but when I want a small jig down deep (or a tube), I use light braid with fluorocarbon leaders.

 

Flippin/Pitching/Punching:  Heavy Braid with leaders, unless no visibility (then straight braid).  Sometimes straight 20-25 lb fluorocarbon.

 

Frogs/toads/buzzbaits: straight 65lb braid in vegetation/cheese, 50lb in open water (use stiff mono leader for buzzers to keep from tangling).

 

I believe each product is a different tool, and you should use the one you think gives you the best shot to put bass in your boat.  Braid is unforgiving, so the right rod is critical, as is the attention to detail in knot tying and in playing bass.  It is the economical choice for those on a tight budget as you need less rods and reels, but not the "best" choice for me in many cases. 

 

On the bad side, it cuts easily on rock, digs into wood, breaks at knots if you don't frequently retie, takes more time when having to tie leaders, increases the number of knots, gets wind knots, wraps on your rod tip and around stickups, cuts your skin badly, is a PITA when hung, is hard on your rods, etc. 

 

On the good side, it is sensitive, great hook sets, thin diameter for less water resistance, casts a mile, floats, allows maximum lure movement, etc.

 

Study each line's qualities and faults, and then choose what is best for the particular application and location.

 

ciao,

Marc Marcantonio

Permalink Reply by Matthew Kennedy on January 12, 2013 at 10:51am

This year I am trying straight braid or braid to mono. À la Matt Allen. As Marc stated, the correct rod will be important. I have to go now so I can work on my blood knot... 

Permalink Reply by Marc Marcantonio on January 12, 2013 at 12:59pm

Work On Your "J Knot", Works Much Better. Google It.

Permalink Reply by Matthew Kennedy on January 12, 2013 at 2:09pm

Never heard of it. Cheers!

Marc Marcantonio said:

Work On Your "J Knot", Works Much Better. Google It.

Permalink Reply by troy kelly on January 13, 2013 at 8:49pm

Over the last three years I have been slowly changing over certain tactics to braid.  One thing braid is great for is anytime where fish have a tendency to bite lightly ie. winter fishing would be a great example.  I had problems early on with breakoffs, but have for the most part resolved these issues.  Last season I used 15lb Power Pro Slick all year on my dropshot rod and an early season tube rod and I loved it.  Early in the year I fished a 5lb sunline leader, but decided thats too light for me so now I use the 7lb. 

 

The main reason I like the braid for dropshotting is the line twist.  I have never found a good brand of line heavier than 6lb that I would not get line twist.  So for me financially it was easy to swith to the braid. 

 

I have tried many knots and the one I have found to be the most successful for me is the alberto knot. 

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