Lure Making

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Chris Lambert on December 30, 2010 at 6:57am

I have been building my own lures for a long time and have a pretty good system down.  I have used most of the spinnerbait molds available but what I have been using lately are the pre-molded heads you can buy in bulk that have the "hidden weight" system.  They're like a War Eagle Screaming Eagle spinnerbait....3/8 oz has the head size of 1/4 oz, etc.  They are molded with good hooks and they seem to work well.  I hand tie all of my skirts so they hold up a lot better.  You can get everything you need at www.livingrubber.com.  I use a heavy rod tying thread so that it doesn't break when you cinch it down.

 

As far as lead goes I have stayed away from tire weights.  They are usually pretty nasty with dirt and grease which can make your melting pot a mess.  You can buy really clean lead cheap if you look around.  If you have any friends who are roofers or plumbers check with them.  I have a couple buddies who have given me enough lead that I haven't had to worry about it for about 10 years.  Even with clean lead your melting pot will get that build up at the top when all of the lead is melted.  It's important to skim that off the top or it will work its way to the bottom of your pot and plug up the pouring spout.  If you cover the inside of your mold with baby powder before you start pouring it will help the lead work its way into the grooves really well.

 

Powder coating seems to be the best way I have found to paint the lead.  After some practice, you can add flake, blending, etc.  There are some good videos online on how to blend colors when painting lures.  The best way I have found to do this is by painting the head with a good base coat, and while still hot, use a paint brush that's coated with a different color of powder paint and gently shake that over the head where you want the blend.  You can also take a sponge type of paint brush to add specific details to the head.  This all has to be done when the head is hot so you don't have much time at all.  This will take some practice because you have to get the lure hot enough so that the powder paint melts but not so hot that it burns and bubbles on the lead.  I use a propane torch on low heat to heat up the head.  After the heads are cooled down, bake the heads in a toaster oven at 300 degrees for about 1/2 hour.  This cures the paint so that it's really durable.

Permalink Reply by P.J. Koshi on December 30, 2010 at 10:18am

http://lurepartsonline.com/cart.html

Permalink Reply by Andy Smith on December 30, 2010 at 10:23am

Sounds good why dont you do spinnerbaits for me for free

Chris Lambert said:

I have been building my own lures for a long time and have a pretty good system down.  I have used most of the spinnerbait molds available but what I have been using lately are the pre-molded heads you can buy in bulk that have the "hidden weight" system.  They're like a War Eagle Screaming Eagle spinnerbait....3/8 oz has the head size of 1/4 oz, etc.  They are molded with good hooks and they seem to work well.  I hand tie all of my skirts so they hold up a lot better.  You can get everything you need at www.livingrubber.com.  I use a heavy rod tying thread so that it doesn't break when you cinch it down.

 

As far as lead goes I have stayed away from tire weights.  They are usually pretty nasty with dirt and grease which can make your melting pot a mess.  You can buy really clean lead cheap if you look around.  If you have any friends who are roofers or plumbers check with them.  I have a couple buddies who have given me enough lead that I haven't had to worry about it for about 10 years.  Even with clean lead your melting pot will get that build up at the top when all of the lead is melted.  It's important to skim that off the top or it will work its way to the bottom of your pot and plug up the pouring spout.  If you cover the inside of your mold with baby powder before you start pouring it will help the lead work its way into the grooves really well.

 

Powder coating seems to be the best way I have found to paint the lead.  After some practice, you can add flake, blending, etc.  There are some good videos online on how to blend colors when painting lures.  The best way I have found to do this is by painting the head with a good base coat, and while still hot, use a paint brush that's coated with a different color of powder paint and gently shake that over the head where you want the blend.  You can also take a sponge type of paint brush to add specific details to the head.  This all has to be done when the head is hot so you don't have much time at all.  This will take some practice because you have to get the lure hot enough so that the powder paint melts but not so hot that it burns and bubbles on the lead.  I use a propane torch on low heat to heat up the head.  After the heads are cooled down, bake the heads in a toaster oven at 300 degrees for about 1/2 hour.  This cures the paint so that it's really durable.

Permalink Reply by D.J. LaRoche on December 30, 2010 at 11:10am

I pour plastics mainly, but I also have dabbled in hard baits as well.  I get my lead off of Ebay.  The last couple of orders have been outstanding lead.  I only pour football heads now, as I really don't have the time to do flippin jigs and spinnerbaits anymore.  I agree with Chris about the pre made heads.  You can get them with awesome detail and the hidden weight system is very nice too.  As far as painting goes, powder coating all the way for me.  You need to buy or build a fluid bed, this will make life easy for you.  If you want to really get into high detail heads, then air brushing is the way to go.  I personally don't believe that a highly detailed head on a bait that is moving makes a difference to the fish.  I think they key in on the color of the skirt and head.  A plain jane bullet head spinnerbait painted in white, pearl, or chartreuse will get the job done.  I also highly recommend hand tying your skirts.  This will allow the skirt to flow more naturally and it will hold up longer then the rubber skirt keepers.  Tackleunderground is a place where you can get any question answered that you may possibly have.

Permalink Reply by Nick Berto on December 30, 2010 at 5:40pm

Just ask Bob Akers... He knows everything! You can even look at all his pictures, there are some new ones if his baits...

Permalink Reply by Dan Johnson on December 30, 2010 at 7:05pm

what about me ?  

Andy Smith said:

Sounds good why dont you do spinnerbaits for me for free

Chris Lambert said:

I have been building my own lures for a long time and have a pretty good system down.  I have used most of the spinnerbait molds available but what I have been using lately are the pre-molded heads you can buy in bulk that have the "hidden weight" system.  They're like a War Eagle Screaming Eagle spinnerbait....3/8 oz has the head size of 1/4 oz, etc.  They are molded with good hooks and they seem to work well.  I hand tie all of my skirts so they hold up a lot better.  You can get everything you need at www.livingrubber.com.  I use a heavy rod tying thread so that it doesn't break when you cinch it down.

 

As far as lead goes I have stayed away from tire weights.  They are usually pretty nasty with dirt and grease which can make your melting pot a mess.  You can buy really clean lead cheap if you look around.  If you have any friends who are roofers or plumbers check with them.  I have a couple buddies who have given me enough lead that I haven't had to worry about it for about 10 years.  Even with clean lead your melting pot will get that build up at the top when all of the lead is melted.  It's important to skim that off the top or it will work its way to the bottom of your pot and plug up the pouring spout.  If you cover the inside of your mold with baby powder before you start pouring it will help the lead work its way into the grooves really well.

 

Powder coating seems to be the best way I have found to paint the lead.  After some practice, you can add flake, blending, etc.  There are some good videos online on how to blend colors when painting lures.  The best way I have found to do this is by painting the head with a good base coat, and while still hot, use a paint brush that's coated with a different color of powder paint and gently shake that over the head where you want the blend.  You can also take a sponge type of paint brush to add specific details to the head.  This all has to be done when the head is hot so you don't have much time at all.  This will take some practice because you have to get the lure hot enough so that the powder paint melts but not so hot that it burns and bubbles on the lead.  I use a propane torch on low heat to heat up the head.  After the heads are cooled down, bake the heads in a toaster oven at 300 degrees for about 1/2 hour.  This cures the paint so that it's really durable.

Permalink Reply by D.J. LaRoche on December 30, 2010 at 9:11pm

Like you know anything about pouring baits!  LOL.  Just messing with you Dan, you make some seriously good sh*t!

Dan Johnson said:

what about me ?  

Andy Smith said:

Sounds good why dont you do spinnerbaits for me for free

Chris Lambert said:

I have been building my own lures for a long time and have a pretty good system down.  I have used most of the spinnerbait molds available but what I have been using lately are the pre-molded heads you can buy in bulk that have the "hidden weight" system.  They're like a War Eagle Screaming Eagle spinnerbait....3/8 oz has the head size of 1/4 oz, etc.  They are molded with good hooks and they seem to work well.  I hand tie all of my skirts so they hold up a lot better.  You can get everything you need at www.livingrubber.com.  I use a heavy rod tying thread so that it doesn't break when you cinch it down.

 

As far as lead goes I have stayed away from tire weights.  They are usually pretty nasty with dirt and grease which can make your melting pot a mess.  You can buy really clean lead cheap if you look around.  If you have any friends who are roofers or plumbers check with them.  I have a couple buddies who have given me enough lead that I haven't had to worry about it for about 10 years.  Even with clean lead your melting pot will get that build up at the top when all of the lead is melted.  It's important to skim that off the top or it will work its way to the bottom of your pot and plug up the pouring spout.  If you cover the inside of your mold with baby powder before you start pouring it will help the lead work its way into the grooves really well.

 

Powder coating seems to be the best way I have found to paint the lead.  After some practice, you can add flake, blending, etc.  There are some good videos online on how to blend colors when painting lures.  The best way I have found to do this is by painting the head with a good base coat, and while still hot, use a paint brush that's coated with a different color of powder paint and gently shake that over the head where you want the blend.  You can also take a sponge type of paint brush to add specific details to the head.  This all has to be done when the head is hot so you don't have much time at all.  This will take some practice because you have to get the lure hot enough so that the powder paint melts but not so hot that it burns and bubbles on the lead.  I use a propane torch on low heat to heat up the head.  After the heads are cooled down, bake the heads in a toaster oven at 300 degrees for about 1/2 hour.  This cures the paint so that it's really durable.

Permalink Reply by Aaron Christel on December 30, 2010 at 10:37pm

I looked at that site, looks like lots of good stuff and pretty decent prices.  I might have to put in an order.

P.J. Koshi said:

http://lurepartsonline.com/cart.html

Permalink Reply by Aaron Christel on December 30, 2010 at 10:46pm

Craig, isn't the vinyl paint just a dip?  I have never used it, what's involved in applying it?  The idea of poweder coating is cool, but it seems like it's a pretty time consuming process. 

 

WCCT, What is a fluid bed, what is the purpose, and how does it work?  I know nothing about them.

 

 

Chris, thanks for the tip on the baby powder, I have never heard that one and will give it a try.

 

 

Dan, I think you have reached legendary status on your bait making skills, and everyone really appreciates all the extra sponsor work you do as well.  You are a major contributer to the sport in the North West.

Permalink Reply by Zackery Shaff on December 30, 2010 at 11:31pm

Check out this blog post for more info on a fluidized bed. Its a pretty slick technique to get an even coating with the powder paints.

 

Zack

Aaron Christel said:

Craig, isn't the vinyl paint just a dip?  I have never used it, what's involved in applying it?  The idea of poweder coating is cool, but it seems like it's a pretty time consuming process. 

 

WCCT, What is a fluid bed, what is the purpose, and how does it work?  I know nothing about them.

 

 

Chris, thanks for the tip on the baby powder, I have never heard that one and will give it a try.

 

 

Dan, I think you have reached legendary status on your bait making skills, and everyone really appreciates all the extra sponsor work you do as well.  You are a major contributer to the sport in the North West.

Permalink Reply by Aaron Christel on December 30, 2010 at 11:39pm

Now you're just teasing...  No link?

Zackery Shaff said:

Check out this blog post for more info on a fluidized bed. Its a pretty slick technique to get an even coating with the powder paints.

 

Zack

Aaron Christel said:

Craig, isn't the vinyl paint just a dip?  I have never used it, what's involved in applying it?  The idea of poweder coating is cool, but it seems like it's a pretty time consuming process. 

 

WCCT, What is a fluid bed, what is the purpose, and how does it work?  I know nothing about them.

 

 

Chris, thanks for the tip on the baby powder, I have never heard that one and will give it a try.

 

 

Dan, I think you have reached legendary status on your bait making skills, and everyone really appreciates all the extra sponsor work you do as well.  You are a major contributer to the sport in the North West.

Permalink Reply by Zackery Shaff on December 31, 2010 at 12:00am

http://www.wafish.com/profiles/blogs/fluidized-bed-for-powder Oops, my bad. Sorry =)

Aaron Christel said:

Now you're just teasing...  No link?

Zackery Shaff said:

Check out this blog post for more info on a fluidized bed. Its a pretty slick technique to get an even coating with the powder paints.

 

Zack

Aaron Christel said:

Craig, isn't the vinyl paint just a dip?  I have never used it, what's involved in applying it?  The idea of poweder coating is cool, but it seems like it's a pretty time consuming process. 

 

WCCT, What is a fluid bed, what is the purpose, and how does it work?  I know nothing about them.

 

 

Chris, thanks for the tip on the baby powder, I have never heard that one and will give it a try.

 

 

Dan, I think you have reached legendary status on your bait making skills, and everyone really appreciates all the extra sponsor work you do as well.  You are a major contributer to the sport in the North West.

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